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With the thick walls and some stone veneer, we're hoping to take a 1940's house back to 1750's look to fit the vernacular of the area, but with high insulation standards to benefit the current day. An air-to-air heat exchanger and beefed up attic insulation are part of the plan. Pa., 6000 degree day zone, and I want to use as much passive solar energy as I can. The goal is to build something that will be super-insulated but not have moisture problems. I'm going to run some 2" pipe inside the wall, from basement to attic as conduit for future electrical wires, etc. The tough part will be framing around the windows and doors. The rooms are big and won't feel the loss of floor space too much. More 2" foam is cut to fit inside the stud pockets, then a light layer of spray foam to finish filling the cavity and provide a vapor barrier. The plan is to put a layer of 2" styrofoam "blue board" on the interior of the perimeter walls, then frame a 2x4 wall inside of that. We've stripped off two (!) layers of strapping and plywood paneling. I looked long and hard and can't see where anyone has done what I'm about to do, so all thoughts are more than welcomed. (They're coming down to put PEX in the first floor ceilings and get rid of really bad odors in the house.)
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I'm almost through with the gutting, one or two ceilings left and we'll be there. So I've decided to insulate on the interior. However, nothing I could find in the way of an exterior finish seemed durable enough or looked "ok" for our neighborhood.
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I've got a house with a concrete block perimeter wall and tried to find a way to insulate on the outside and take advantage of that thermal mass. I'm new here and my problem is similar so I thought I'd piggyback on this thread. This framing factor is dependent on how the wall studs are laid out.Glad to read this thread. In summary, you can calculate the effective R-value of a wall assembly by taking the sum of the individual R-values of each “layer” of the wall and adjusting it by a framing factor.
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This means the U-value per inch would be 1/1.25 = 0.8. For example, soft pine wood studs typically have an R-value per inch of 1.25. The U-value is simply the reciprocal of a given R-value. You may come across U-values (a measure of heat transfer) when researching R-values (a measure of heat resistance) of a given material. The equation used in this calculator for wall R-value is as follows:Įffective Wall R-Value = ( 1/(FF/(R stud) + (1-FF)/(R cavity.insulation))) + R + R siding + R exterior.insulation + R sheathing + R interior.cladding + R This “framing factor” is taken into account and adjusts the effective wall R-value accordingly. This, in turn, leaves more room for the superior insulating qualities of stud cavity insulation. This is because wider spaced stud walls have fewer studs overall. 24″ on center) will have better insulating properties than a stud wall with narrower spacing (i.e. The insulation value of the wood studs is also taken into account in this calculator. These R-values account for the microscopic layers of “air insulation” that form on the interior and exterior finishes of walls. Wall R-Value Tips Air FilmĪn R-value of 0.21 for an exterior air film and 0.68 for an interior air film is added in to the calculation. Hit “calculate” to see the effective R-value of your wall. This is typically drywall or wood paneling. Many homes still use fiberglass batts or blown in insulation between studs.įinally, choose your interior cladding or wall covering. The stud cavity insulation is the most important insulation component of any wall. Typically, a continuous layer of plywood sheathing is used to prevent racking and to add rigidity to stud-framed structures. Many modern homes have a continuous layer of rigid insulation wrapping the home to help minimize thermal bridging through studs.Ĭhoose your wall sheathing next. Next, choose your exterior insulation, if applicable. Note there is also an option for metal/vinyl siding that comes backed with a layer of insulation. Typical siding choices for many homes built today are vinyl or wood siding. Most commonly this is either 2×4 (3.5″ width) or 2×6 (5.5″ width).Įxterior cladding is a fancy term for siding. If your wall is built with advanced framing techniques, choose either the 16″ or 24″ advanced framing option. Check out the framing calculator if you need to calculate materials for wood stud framed walls. Typically, this is either 16″ or 24″ on center. First, enter the stud spacing for your wall.